Hair Dye Buying Guide

In the guide below, you will find explanations of concepts and techniques, read tips for choosing the right hair dye, and you will also find the starter kit with everything you need to dye your hair at home by yourself.

#1 Starting with the basics…

Permanent dyes: Hair dyes that change the color of the hair permanently. Permanent duration means that the dye will remain on the hair and will not wash out with shampooing. They have a chemical composition in order to penetrate the hair and replace the existing color with new synthetic pigments. Permanent dyes are the best solution for covering gray hair.
Temporary & semi-permanent dyes: Dyes that do not penetrate the inside of the hair or penetrate very little. They fade with washing (1-6 washes depending on the type) and do not contain ammonia. There are various types of temporary & semi-permanent dye, such as color shampoos, color masks etc.
Henna: This is a natural plant-based dye derived from the dried, ground leaves of the Lawsonia inermis plant. It is a semi-permanent dye, as the result it gives to the hair does not last over time. It does not contain ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, or synthetic chemicals. In relation to gray hair, it can cover them, however the color it leaves on them is usually more intense. As a natural product, it adds shine and improves the texture of the hair.
In application, it differs from the above, as it requires a longer processing time (1-4 hours) and is usually preferred to be mixed with hot water, lemon or herbal infusion.
Ammonia-free: They do not contain ammonia, a chemical that helps the color penetrate the hair. Instead of ammonia, these dyes use other ingredients to achieve the desired color, such as oils or moisturizing agents. Their benefits include less irritation, that they are ideal for sensitive scalp and hair, and that they smell less. They do not “fall short” in performance and gray coverage (always depending on the dye and the brand).
Plant-based dyes: They are a more natural solution for changing hair color, as they come from natural sources, such as plants. They do not contain chemical substances such as ammonia or hydrogen peroxide.

#2 Moving on to more…complex concepts

Refle: This is a technique used to add a tone to the hair or refresh the existing color. It is a semi-permanent dye that renews the hair color and gradually fades with washing. It is a good solution for the period between dye jobs, to enhance the color or correct the tone. There are warm refle shades, such as copper or gold, which add shine, and cool ones, such as ash or violet, which neutralize yellow tones and give a cooler result. Refle smooths out the difference between the natural tone of the hair and the shade of the dyed hair.
To do refle at home, you can choose an ammonia-free dye and, depending on the dye, the corresponding developer, and mix them according to the instructions and the ratio indicated on the package (usually 1:2, meaning 1 part dye and 2 parts activator). After washing the hair with shampoo, apply the mixture to the hair from roots to ends with a brush so it goes everywhere, and leave it on (depending on the intensity you want) for 10 to 30 minutes.
Toner: Hair toners are products used to neutralize unwanted tones, add shine to the hair, or refresh the color. They are semi-permanent dyes and can come in gel form, color mask form, etc.

#3 Color Charts: What Do the Numbers Mean?

The first number in hair dyes is the base and shows how light or dark the color is.

Base Numbers:

1 = Black

2 = Very Dark Brown

3 = Dark Brown

4 = Medium Brown

5 = Light Brown

6 = Dark Blonde

7 = Medium Blonde

8 = Light Blonde

9 = Very Light Blonde

10 = Platinum Blonde

11-12 = High Lift Blondes

The second number is the tone.

If there are two numbers after the dot, both refer to the tone, with the first being the dominant and the second the secondary.

Color tone:

.0 = Natural / Neutral

.1 = Blue (Ash)

.2 = Purple

.3 = Doré / Gold

.4 = Copper

.5 = Mahogany

.6 = Red

.7 = Matte

.8 = Mocha

#4 How do you choose the right color for you?

Assess your natural color: You need to know how much your natural color “lifts,” or whether it turns yellow / red. Also take into account what suits you, based on your natural color, so that you do not necessarily deviate too much from it.
Assess your skin tone: If your skin has warm undertones (rosy skin, reddish, wheat-colored, etc.), then warmer shades will suit you better (e.g. golden blonde, copper, etc.). If, on the other hand, you have a more cool complexion with blue undertones, cool colors will suit you (e.g. choose something more ash blonde or with purple undertones).

#5 Oxidizing Cream (Developer)

The oxidizing cream (developer) activates the dye and helps the color penetrate the hair shaft. Depending on its concentration, it has the ability to lighten the hair more or less.

10 vol: Stabilizes the color and gives a slight tone change. It is ideal for dyeing the same shade or a darker one.
20 vol: Lightens 1 to 2 tones and is an ideal choice for covering gray hair.
30 vol: Lightens 2 to 3 tones and is an ideal choice for lightening or light-colored dyes.
40 vol: Lightens 3 to 4 tones and is also used for intense lightening.

#6 Bleaching

This is a chemical process that requires great care so as not to irreparably damage the hair. It is recommended that you read the detailed instructions for use written on the box and perform an allergy test. If your hair is very damaged, avoid further stressing it with this process. If in doubt, you can consult a specialist in order to avoid major damage to your hair.

#7 Allergy Test

Do not forget to do the allergy test 48 hours before using the dye. Mix 5gr of dye (as you intend to use it) with 5gr of oxidizing cream. Apply the dye directly under the bend of the elbow and leave it uncovered for 45 minutes. Then rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry with a towel. If there is no allergic reaction, you can use the hair dye. The allergy test is recommended even if you have used the hair dye before in the past.